Left for Dead Read online

  To the many heroes of my story: David Breashears, Robert Schauer, Ed Viesturs, Pete Athans and Todd Burleson, who put their lives on the line for mine. And especially to Colonel Madan K.C., whose brave heart still astounds me.

  To our guides on Everest: Rob Hall, Mike Groom and Andy Harris, who embodied the professionalism, character and sacrifice of mountain guides throughout the world.

  To my team members: Doug Hansen, Yasuko Namba, Stuart Hutchison, Frank Fischbeck, Lou Kasischke, John Taske and Jon Krakauer—I treasure the friendships.

  To the Sherpas who make all of this possible through their hard work and bravery: Ang Tshering Sherpa, Ang Dorje Sherpa, Lhakpa Chhiri Sherpa, Kami Sherpa, Tenzing Sherpa, Arita Sherpa, Ngawang Norbu Sherpa, Chuldum Sherpa, Chhongba Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa and Tendi Sherpa.

  Also part of our team: Helen Wilton, who made us all wash our hands and kept us healthy, with the able assistance of Dr. Caroline Mackenzie, our Base Camp doctor.

  To Senators Kay Bailey Hutchison and Tom Daschle, as well as Ambassador Sandra Vofelgesang, David Schensted and Inu K.C.

  I would also thank the physicians, nurses and therapists who worked so long and hard to put me back together: Dr. Greg Anigian, Dr. Mike Doyle, Dr. Joe Sample, Dr. James Brodsky and Dr. Alan Farrow-Gillespie, as well as the physicians who assisted me on the mountain: Dr. Ken Kamler and Dr. Henrik Hansen.

  I’m extremely grateful to my partners, Dr. John Esber, Dr. Charles Cramer and Dr. Wayne Taylor, for allowing me the privilege of returning to work with them, and supporting me and my family in the months before I was able to resume my duties.

  Thank you, as well, to members of the Inner Circle, who were there through all the darkest days, and the Research Council: our friends Jim and Marianne Ketchersid, Terry and Pat White, and Jon and Sally Esber.

  To Dan Lewis and his boys, as well as Deena Killingsworth and Jonnie Rohrer for their expert help with the press.

  Thanks to Ken Zornes for coming by every Sunday morning with a box of doughnuts that helped me regain those thirty pounds of lost weight that Brent Blackmore helped me gain. And thanks to Cappy and Janie McGarr, my favorite Democrats.

  And to the north Dallas power moms who fought like tigers to bring me home: Mary Ann Bristow, Cecilia Boone, Linda Gravelle, Victoria Bryhan, Maude Cejudo, Bobbie Long, Vickey Thumlert, Mary Ellen Malone, Ann Abernathy, Caroline Allen, Pat White, Yolanda Brooks, Liz Zornes, Jean Sudderth, Marcela Gerber, Lisa Camp, Sue Washington, Sandra Barr, Barbara Lynn and Carolyn Kobey.

  My appreciation to the many thousands of individuals who held us in their thoughts and prayers. This was a far greater comfort than you can ever know.

  Finally, to Howard Olson, for all the love and inspiration he has given us, and for fostering that second, and perhaps greater miracle.

  ABOUT THE AUTHORS

  BECK WEATHERS has become a much-sought-after speaker before professional, corporate and academic audiences. He lives with his family in Dallas, where he also practices medicine.

  STEPHEN G. MICHAUD is the author or coauthor of nine books, including The Evil That Men Do and The Only Living Witness. His website is www.stephenmichaud.com.

  Copyright © 2000 by S. Beck Weathers

  All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. Published in the United States by Villard Books, a division of Random House, Inc., New York, and simultaneously in Canada by Random House of Canada Limited, Toronto.

  Villard Books and colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

  Except where otherwise credited, photographs appearing in this book are snapshots from the personal collection of the author. The frontispiece photograph is © J. Allen Hansley.

  Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

  Weathers, Beck.

  Left for dead: my journey home from Everest/Beck Weathers with

  Stephen G. Michaud

  p. cm.

  eISBN: 978-0-375-50588-1

  1. Weathers, Beck. 2. Mountaineers—United

  States—Biography. 3. Mountaineering—Everest, Mount (China and Nepal) I. Michaud, Stephen G., 1948– II. Title.

  GV199.92.W42 A3 2000 00-021503

  Villard Books website address: www.villard.com

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